There are many memories that stick out in regard to my Seven Summit
experiences, and it would be difficult to say which one sticks out the most. If I had to pick out the memory that stood out the most, it would be summiting Vinson Massif--the great sense of achievement and the unique view from the top, not to mention a sense of unreality at being on the top of the bottom of the world. It is not uncommon for the first major victory to stand out the most. Everest was a greater victory, and although I do remember summiting, I was less lucid on the summit of Everest than on the summit of Vinson Massif due to my greater fatigue--and even more do to my greater degree of hypoxia. Minor epics also stand out; fortunately there were no major epics on any of my expeditions. Epics make for great conversation afterwards, and make great writing material, but they are best avoided and no one wants to experience them.
All of the Summits were fun. One cannot really say which is the most fun. As I mentioned earlier, I enjoy climbing for the entire experience and not
just the victory of summiting. I even enjoyed the expeditions on which I failed
to reach the summit. For those who only get pleasure out of summitting, they would not enjoy expeditions where they fail to summit. On any expedition, safety is the number one priority. Enjoyment is the second-most important priority. Success is the least important priority. One ascends because one wants to, and one descends because one has to. If one fails to reach the summit, the mountain will always be there to be climbed at a later date. Summit fever can be fatal; one must have a combination of determination, patience, and common sense when climbing.
The other point is that different climbers will have different perspectives when it comes to fun. For example, an extrovert might well get more stimulus from the people in his group than an introvert. In addition, one's enjoyment will be influenced by the personalities of the people in each expedition, weather, stress imposed by altitude, length of absence from home, presence or absence of bugs picked up in third world countries, and many other factors. The make-up of the group is likely to vary on each of the Seven Summits. Climbers are certain to vary in terms of which
personality type they get on with best. On one hand, Kilimanjaro is a high-altitude trek. Most of its climbers are hikers, not experienced mountaineers, and are looking for a challenge that is strenuous, but not horrendously difficult. Most Kilimanjaro climbers have no intention of making major ascents of other more difficult peaks, and in the overwhelming majority of cases they will never do so. Many Kilimanjaro climbers are youths in their twenties on an overseas experience or work abroad experience.
On a peak like Mount McKinley, most climbers will be reasonable climbers, in
many cases strong technically. Mount McKinley seldom marks the end of their climbing careers. They tend to be more serious than your average social Kilimanjaro climber and considerably older.
On Mount Everest, most climbers are on commercial expeditions. They are
usually well-to-do, because of the heavy price tag on such expeditions, and they are usually successful financially. They are usually over 40 years old. They are very determined to reach the summit because if they fail they will have blown a lot of money. To me the high price tag is dangerous for two reasons. Firstly, it forces many people to attempt to summit at all costs because they realize that they may not be able to afford to make a second attempt. Secondly, many people who go on such expeditions are at least ten years past their climbing prime because they have had to spend many years getting wealthy enough to be in a financial position to join an expedition. Many are self-centered--although there are many exceptions. Most are a far cry from your average Kilimanjaro climber, who is often staying in inexpensive accommodation, is very social, and who is seldom financially well to do.
On Mount Everest, a not inconsiderable fraction of commercial climbers nowadays are fairy inexperienced climbers, and indeed, several beginners have been known to summit--although, of course, many strong climbers still do join commercial expeditions. Even when I climbed Everest back in 1993, a few inexperienced climbers were starting to join commercial expeditions, but in those days the majority of commercial climbers, myself included, although not nearly as good as professional guides, were still reasonably experienced and competent climbers.
When things go according to Hoyle, such climbers usually get away with it, occasionally they will summit, and usually they will get down in one piece. However, when things go according to Murphy, such people lack the experience and more importantly lack the temperament to cope with an emergency or series of emergencies on their own--and as a result, tragedy often strikes. In such situations, guides and Sherpas often have to take extreme risks to save their clients, sometimes without success, and sometimes at the cost of their own lives. Unfortunately, the fact that some beginners have managed to summit Everest and return safely has set a dangerous precedent, and it is virtually impossible to change the rules and allow only experienced climbers to climb the mountain. As a result, many inexperienced climbers are likely to pay the price for their ignorance and arrogance on Everest with their lives in future years.
As you can see it is impossible to say which summit will be the most fun
for another climber.
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QUESTION: TELL US--WHICH SUMMIT AFFORDED THE BEST VIEW FROM THE TOP? |
Vinson Massif and Carstenz Pyramid were the two summits that, for me, offered the best views when I summited these peaks. On Vinson, because all the water vapor is frozen out of the air, and because there is no pollen or other forms of pollution, there is no haze, and distant peaks can be seen as clearly as close ones. The summit is also 13,000 feet above the plateau at the horizon, although only 8,000 feet above the base of the mountain. The combination of the perfectly clear air and vast distance to the horizon allows one to clearly make out the curvature of the earth. On Carstenz, one could make out vast rocky walls to the north and several snow fields. To the south one could see lesser ranges, the jungle, and in the distance the sea. I had clear weather and I was fresh enough and so little-affected by the
altitude that I was best able to remember these views. On peaks like Everest, Aconcagua, and Kilimanjaro, there was some haze, although they all afforded great views.
It must be remembered: the best view will vary from climber to climber, just as different people will have different opinions on which woman is the most beautiful in a beauty contest or which painting they like the best in an art gallery. The greatness of the view will also depend on weather conditions and lack or presence of haze on the day that such and such a climber summits any peak--and how lucid he or she is at the time.
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QUESTION: NOW THAT YOU'VE CONQUERED THE SEVEN SUMMITS, WHAT'S NEXT? |
At the present time I am not certain what my next challenge is. Although
I do go looking for adventures, adventures and challenges usually have a way of finding me. Since completing the Seven Summits, I have also completed the Seven Marathons, that is, running a marathon on each of the seven continents. I completed this grand slam in April 2004 and I am officially the first person to complete such a double grand slam. You can find details of my marathons on my website, johngluckman.com. Since then, only one more person has completed such a double grand slam, a woman named Jeanne Stawiecki.
Last year I did a six-week ski improvement course at Whistler, Canada, and qualified as a ski instructor.
I am sure further adventures will find me in the not-too-distant future.
