FORBIDDING SONORAN

Born in 1736, de Anza had grown up in Mexico. At 16 he joined the army, and one day found himself posted on the frontier--on the edge of the Sonoran Desert itself. We may never know when the idea that he might cross the Sonoran hatched in de Anza's mind; perhaps, while on patrol, the young de Anza stared out over the arid, seeming wasteland to the north, bathed in moonlight, and wondered what lay beyond the horizon. Whatever the propulsion, Juan Bautista de Anza set off with an expedition party into the wilderness in 1774. His starting point, the Tubac presidio, lies north of the border between Arizona and Mexico. Following in de Anza's footsteps, then, requires the adventurer to make his way here first, to present-day Nogales--a community that prides itself in having been a "crossroads community" for a thousand years.

De Anza left from Tubac presidio and, after a brief foray to the south, headed northwest, past what is now Organ Pipe National Park, towards the Colorado River. Following de Anza from his starting point in Nogales, the traveler is advised to follow I-19 to where it meets Arizona Highway 86, then turn left onto the 86 to Why. Turn south on Arizona Highway 85. This will lead directly to Organ Pipe. (Incidentally, "Organ Pipe" refers to the organ pipe cactus, distinct to the area). The national park allows for hiking of all levels, from the light to the very strenuous, and camping under the starlit sky, just as de Anza and his party did, far from any sign of civilization, is heartily recommended.

	SEA OF CORTEZ

ELUSIVE GOAL: THE PACIFIC

Soon the party was treading on Yuma Indian territory. The Yuma were friendly, however, and aided the group in their travels. Finally, an exhausted de Anza reached the banks of the Colorado, where its tributary, the Gila, flows into it. From Organ Pipe, the adventurer is advised to travel north on Arizona Highway 85, then follow the I-8 west to Yuma--the present-day site of de Anza's Colordao River crossing. It is worthy of note that the crossing itself was accomplished with the help of the Yuma Indian chief, Palma. The site of the crossing today boasts a state historic park--aptly named Yuma Crossing State Historic Park. Hiking and camping abound, and a worthwhile museum featuring five hundred years of history--including much concerning de Anza and his party--informs visitors of the area's past. Interestingly, the park also houses a transportation museum showcasing pre-1930 automobiles...

And here's where things went awry. Nowadays, the route is due west, toward San Diego. Unfortunately for de Anza and his crew, the curious Mexican soldier decided to strike it south, and ended up lost in the shifting sands around the delta of the Sea of Cortez (Gulf of California). For a month the sun-beaten party wallowed in the dunes, circling without meaning to, searching for a way out. It got so bad that de Anza was forced to send a sizable portion of his party back to Yuma. Then, suddenly, they stumbled upon a narrow northwest route out of one desert...and into another. The Yuha Desert, however, was at least inhabited, and the party found refuge west of Calexico at a place called Yuha Wells. The modern-day wanderer on his way from Yuma should continue along the I-8. It will cross California Highway 111. Stick to the I-8. Soon, the Wells of Santa Rosa, where de Anza camped, will be reached. From here, we recommend hitting the Anza Trail, clearly marked, which takes one north about 30 miles to another de Anza camp: San Sebastian Marsh. Sebastian Tarabal was de Anza's Indian guide (who, ironically, completed the Sonoran crossing first, before de Anza had even begun), and the spot named after him is also the site of several prehistoric settlements.

From San Sebastian Marsh, the party continued up into the Borrego Valley. Continuing north, de Anza and his people trekked through what is today Anza-Borrego Desert State Park. As the party continued, they entered Cahuilla Indian territory. For those venturing the trail today, we recommend taking Highway 78 west from San Sebastian Marsh, following it to the Yaqui Pass/County Road S3 intersection. Turn north here. On Borrego Springs Road, turn left, then turn left on Palm Canyon Drive. This will lead you straight to Anza-Borrego Desert State Park's visitor center. Hiking and biking trails are available and well-marked inside the park. We highly recommend the Coyote Canyon trail.

De Anza must have known he was very close to achieving his goal--and the goal of hundreds of travelers and explorers for centuries. His party pushed north and west, eventually crossing the Santa Ana River and entering what is now Los Angeles County. On 22 March--72 days after leaving the presidio at Tubac, a ragged party led by a weary Juan Bautista de Anza stumbled into the San Gabriel Mission, the expedition's aim achieved. The I-10 will take the curious traveler directly to the old mission site, where a plaque commemorates its original location.

De Anza would eventually lead Mexican colonists along this same route to settle in California. He would trailblaze north, and his travels and efforts at settling his countrymen would eventually lead to the establishment of one of the world's most famous cities: San Francisco.

MORE FOOTSTEPS:

IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF GENGHIS KHAN
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF SIDDHARTHA GAUTAMA
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF THOR HEYERDAHL
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF JUAN BAUTISTA DE ANZA
IN THE FOOTSTEPS OF LT. HENRY LIDGBIRD BALL

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